Antique hunting in France

It's the early bird that catches the Louis XV ormolu commode... Antique hunting is a popular activity in France so here's our guide to their finest antique markets and bric-a-brac sales.

Paris is of course well known for its puces or flea markets that attract hundreds of thousands of visitors every weekend. When, at the end of the 19th century, the capital's rag and bone men were driven out of the city, they pursued their activities on the other side of the fortifications near the gates of Montreuil, Vanves and Clignancourt. The traders subsequently decided to group together and it wasn't long before the well heeled descended en masse to rifle for objets d'art among the bric-a-brac. St Ouen, at the Porte de Clignancourt, is now the largest antiques market in the world, as well as being the oldest in Paris and boasts fifteen different markets with more than 2000 shops spread over 15km. Head to the Marché Dauphine for period dressers and rare texts, to Vernaison for curios or to Jules Vallès for posters, antique weapons and military uniforms. The market at Montreuil has a different feel altogether with second-hand designer clothes, electrical goods from the 50s and trinkets of all kinds. Montreuil and Clignancourt are both open on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays throughout the year.
www.parispuces.com

Some of France's best-known cabinet makers are from the Rhone-Alpes region and the Puces du Canal in Lyon Villeurbanne is the country's most important flea market outside Paris. On the stroke of six every Sunday morning, dedicated browsers are to be found scouring the 400 stalls, flashlight in hand. A temple of bric-a-brac, the market is often home to some fine examples of walnut furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries. In the winter months, refuel with grilled Lyonnais sausages washed down with mulled wine. Just a few minutes away is the Cité des Antiquaires on Boulevard Stalingrad where 130 dealers trade in religious artefacts and other quality knick-knacks. Then there's the Rue Auguste Comte back in the city centre where, in the space of half a mile, you'll find the greatest concentration of antique shops, art galleries and specialist dealers in France. The best time to visit is for Tapis Rouge on the first Thursday in October when a red carpet lines the street and 90 traders open their doors until late in the evening to serve petits fours and champagne to passing shoppers. Book binders, philatelists, horologists, toy collectors and maritime specialists are all present.
www.lyon-france.com

For more than 25 years, on the last Sundays in April and September, the centre of Chambéry in Savoie is transformed into an enormous Ali Baba's den for the town's famous Grande Braderie. Three thousand stallholders welcome hordes of eager rummagers, all on the lookout for a bargain. Catch your breath by grabbing a quick fondue or gratinée soup before diving back into the mêlée. Get details about this year's flea market bonanzas from:
www.chambery-tourisme.com

Meet the professionals at the Salon Antiquités-Brocante, an annual event held in old Antibes. One of the most important events of its kind in Europe, the Salon marks the launch of the season on the Côte d'Azur. Exhibitors come from across the continent to display their historic wares but prestigious galleries with collections of old masters or modern and contemporary art also participate. Attended by 60,000 visitors, from well-known celebrities to modest buyers, the show has experts in situ to offer advice. Seek out Madame Yamilée d'Arrigo for jewellery and Monsieur Eugène Brelaz for furniture and paintings. Antibes also has regular antiques markets on Place Audiberti on Thursdays and Saturdays.
www.antibes-juanlespins.com

Another antiques fair of international fame is the Salon des Antiquaires in Toulouse. The Salon has around 300 exhibitors spread over three halls. Specialist categories include silverware, Art Nouveau, ceramics, tapestries, 18th century furniture, rare books and oriental art, with experts on hand to guide buyers.
www.salon-antiquaires-toulouse.com

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue in the Vaucluse, just 20 minutes from Avignon, is an unspoilt town situated on the banks of the river Sorgue at the point where the river splits in two. It has many old canals and wooden mills, with houses built over rushing water and is often described as a provençal Venice. But it also boasts one of the largest number of antique specialists in France with seven Antiques Villages and more than 300 shops. Head to the Village de la Gare for gilded mirrors, crystal glasses, old lamps and silverware. The villages are open on Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays and bank holidays. An outdoor brocante market is held in the town every Sunday and, over the Easter weekend and the weekend around Assumption Day (15 August), the number of traders swells to 800.
www.ot-islesurlasorgue.fr

Need help to tell your Louis XV from your Empire style? Anne-Marie Morgades is an antique dealer who runs initiation courses on French antiques at the peaceful Manoir St Jean just outside Moissac in the Midi-Pyrenees. Set in the heart of orchard and vineyard country, the mansion has been renovated and decorated with passion by Anne-Marie and has 9 suites, each done out in their own inimitable fashion. As well as teaching guests how to recognize different periods using the hotel's own furniture, she also gives an introduction to marquetry. The three-day course includes all meals, using seasonal regional produce like Quercy lamb and truffles from Lalbenque; entrance to the Ingres museum in nearby Montauban where there are several examples of 18th century furniture, paintings and porcelain; and a visit to local antique dealers.
www.manoirsaintjean.com

Don't forget, details change; you must always check details, including dates, locations, terms and conditions, before acting on any information obtained from this web site or making bookings.

This article is based on a document and photograph reproduced by permission from the website of GIE Maison de la France, www.franceguide.com